Skin aging is a degenerative process that is divided into chronological (natural) aging and photoaging (aging due to skin exposure to UV radiation).
Chronological aging is characterized by skin atrophy, loss of elasticity and slowing down of metabolic activity, while photoaging is responsible for the majority of aesthetically undesirable skin changes. The result of these changes is dryness, loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, superficially enlarged capillaries and wrinkles.
Photoaging is the result of continuous exposure to UVA and UVB radiation with a wavelength of 245nm - 290nm. Penetrating UV radiation deep into the skin causes damage to elastic and collagen fibers, which results in accelerated aging of the skin. It is believed that 50% of damage occurs as a result of the formation of free radicals, so the role of antioxidants in preserving youthful skin is of crucial importance.
WHAT ARE WRINKLES?
Wrinkles are lines or folds on the surface of the skin that appear more frequently after the age of 25, primarily on the face (next to the neck and arms), because the face has significant facial expressions and is significantly exposed to harmful UV radiation. Environmental and genetic factors, as well as a lifestyle that includes smoking and alcohol consumption, dehydration, unhealthy lifestyle habits and long-term exposure to the sun, significantly affect the premature development of wrinkles.
Prematurely aged dermis has fragmented elastin fibers, less collagen and a disproportionate ratio of type I and III collagen. The proportion of glycosaminoglycans, especially hyaluronic acid, also decreased. With the degradation of these support systems, the surface of the skin becomes less elastic, dry and loses its elasticity, and over time it relaxes, which creates ideal conditions for the formation of wrinkles.
Certainly the biggest cause of skin aging, besides chronological aging, is exposure to UVA and UVB radiation. With repeated damage, which we can only partially recognize as specific redness and burning, the skin accumulates microdamages that years later are recognized as premature aging. The problem is further complicated in phenotypically light-skinned people who are particularly sensitive to the sun, and by adding photosensitizing factors that we sometimes unknowingly provoke by wrong or uninformed choice of cosmetics.
Photosensitivity can be further aggravated by certain plant compounds that, when exposed to sunlight, cause characteristic phytophotodermatitis, and by the consumption of certain drugs such as tetracycline, which are often prescribed for the treatment of acne. Certain plant compounds (such as citrus components) are especially important to avoid when exposed to the sun, as they are phototoxic and can cause long-term pigment changes and skin damage.
PREVENTION AS THE KEY TO ANTI-AGE CARE
Most users of cosmetics do not understand that the idea of anti-aging cosmetics is mainly about prevention, rather than significant repair of damage. In addition, it is important to know that there are wrinkles such as nasolabial wrinkles (from the corner of the lips to the nose) that are impossible to avoid because they are caused by the specific structure of the facial bones and the loss of subcutaneous fat in adulthood. Wrinkles on the bridge of the nose, forehead and the area between the eyebrows are classic facial wrinkles, that is, they are caused by facial expressions such as laughing or frowning.
Improving the appearance of aged skin requires changes in collagen synthesis, that is, in the dermis (the second of the three layers of the skin), so cosmetic options are relatively limited. The best option is to defend against these degenerative processes by avoiding exposure to the sun and using potent active ingredients that strengthen the skin's structure and refine its texture.
Fortunately, there are numerous active ingredients such as peptides, bakuchiol, antioxidants and plant extracts with a proven effect on the structure and texture of the skin, and retinoids that have a proven preventive and slightly reparative effect on the skin.
It is especially important to highlight the beneficial effect of coenzyme Q10, topical vitamin C in concentrations higher than 5%, vitamin E, peptides, gluconolactone (PHA) and green tea polyphenols. The action of AHA and BHA acids, which we use in the form of chemical peels, is also important. These peels work by gently and targetedly damaging parts of the epidermis and dermis, after which re-epithelization occurs with the effect of rejuvenating the skin. AHA products containing glycolic and lactic acid are proven to have a reparative effect on signs of photodamage. Adequate SPF during sun exposure is necessary so that the positive effects of chemical peels are not canceled out by the negative effects of UV radiation.
Every skin inevitably goes through the aging process, but adequately cared for skin has by far the greatest possibility of being healthy and beautiful even in adulthood. Unlike shallow wrinkles, which can be significantly corrected with cosmeceuticals, deep wrinkles cannot be completely corrected or "erased" by cosmetic products alone. Even dermal fillers and botox have a temporary and limited effect on the appearance of aged skin. A synergistic and holistic approach to the skin will produce the most complete results if we practice it regularly and respecting the integrity of our own skin.
With the continuous use of quality cosmetics, which primarily includes preventive care, by reducing the impact of oxidative stressors from the environment (such as smoking and exposure to UV radiation) and facial massages that strengthen the muscles, fantastic and, most importantly, long-term satisfactory results can be achieved.
And remember: the point is not (nor is it sustainable) not to have a single wrinkle or blemish on your face in your later years - the point is to not look like you're seventy at fifty. Just as it will be important for you not to move like you are seventy at fifty. In this vain century, we dread the word "aging", but it is a biological fact and it can be beautiful if we are healthy. You should think about your own skin in the same way. Let there be less "anti-aging" in your care rhetoric, and more dignified aging.
SKINTEGRA ROUTINE SUGGESTION
Morning: Antioxidants + SPF
Evening: Acids + peptides
A powerful antioxidant complex with high sun protection is the most potent combination for slowing down the early signs of aging. Depending on your skin type, choose Superba C serum with vitamin C (10%), vitamin E and ferulic acid or Architect serum emulsion with bakuchiol (1%), resveratrol and green tea, along with Solar I moisturizing fluid with high protection factor 30.
Dehydrated and dry skins are suitable for repairing the texture with a non-drying chemical peel with a complex of AHA and PHA acids, as we have in Lumion , along with the regenerative and softening properties of the Lunar peptide cream, which supports the natural functions of the skin that are damaged by photoaging. Lunar contains Matrixyl 3000, a complex combination of peptides in a concentration of even 3%, which is clinically proven to improve the quality of the skin.
Mixed and oily skin can also use Lumion, but if they are resistant and at the same time prone to clogging of pores, the ideal choice is the complex of BHA and AHA acids from Clarion with light, moisturizing textures for regular evening facial care. You can read how to use acids in your facial care routine HERE .