#SKINFORMED / Razlika između komedona i sebacealnih nakupina

#SKINFORMED / The difference between comedones and sebaceous glands

Helena P., 26 years old

Skin type : normal

Main skin challenges : Non-inflammatory acne (closed comedones and blackheads), skin texture (pores)

"I would say that my skin type is normal, it has never been prone to irregularities, except for some premenstrual pimples. I have never had a routine other than toner, cream and SPF. What I have had on my face since I was a child are broken capillaries in the area of ​​the left eye, on the nose and above the lip, and the closed comedones on the cheek area also bother me a lot. I would like to achieve a healthier look and reduce the appearance of those annoying comedones. I also have spots from pimples that stay for a long time. I exfoliate twice a week, in the evening before the cream I use Infrared, morning toner, vitamin C and SPF."

SK Analysis: comedones, sebaceous accumulations, broken capillaries

Recommended routine :

Morning In the evening
Amphibian Atomic
Nectar Amphibian or Clarion 2% BHA Cleanser
Superb C Infrared
Solar I Spectra

Explanation :

Cracked capillaries and how to treat them

Thin red or purple threads are permanently dilated blood vessels that are located under the surface of the skin, and they can arise due to genetic predisposition and weak connective tissue, but they are also affected by hormonal changes and some external factors, such as solar radiation.

Unfortunately, cosmetics cannot help repair enlarged veins permanently, but they are treated with laser treatments in consultation with a dermatologist. If you are prone to them, the most important thing is prevention in order to avoid further capillary damage - avoiding all factors that cause vasodilation (UV radiation, alcohol, cigarettes, washing with hot or cold water), and in cosmetics, regular, daily use of SPF and choosing products with ingredients which are proven to act as vasoconstrictors and are recommended for skin with weakened capillary function. Some of them are vitamin C, caffeine and resveratrol, which means that Superba C and Spectra in combination with a protective factor will be an ideal basic care that protects against environmental stressors, soothes and helps strengthen capillary walls.

Skintegra Superba C and Solar I

Sebaceous accumulations on the chin and comedones on the cheeks

The photo of the beard that Helena sent us is a real example of what you often call blackheads or closed comedones. In fact, it is a question of accumulations of sebum that inevitably appear on the parts where the skin gets more oily, and more or less we all have them.

We cannot get rid of sebaceous accumulations permanently, because they arise as a result of the normal function of the skin that secretes sebum. They will not turn into an inflammatory process, as is the case with "real" comedones, unless you cause it yourself by improper squeezing.

Sebaceous deposits will always re-form, but proper care, which includes the occasional chemical exfoliant, light textures, adequate makeup and SPF removal, and skin cleansing, can help keep pores clear for longer. Additional advice, try a couple of minutes of massage once a week with Atomic. Concentrate the product on problem areas (nose/chin) with gentle movements without rough pulling. Atomic helps to soften sebaceous deposits and release them from the pores.

On the other hand, we see several real closed comedones on the cheek. Closed comedones are papules in the color of the skin, and they are formed deeper in the follicle and are a real ticking time bomb, because they can easily develop into inflammatory acne. Stubborn comedones should be mechanically cleaned by a professional beautician, and regular exfoliation should be included in the evening care routine. From the question, we are not sure whether Helena does mechanical or chemical peeling, but we would definitely recommend her to use a gentle chemical peeling, or exfoliant, 2-3 times a week. An exfoliant in the form of a cleanser that is rinsed off is a better choice for more sensitive skin, as rinsing reduces the possibility of dryness and irritation. Clarion 2% BHA Cleanser, which contains salicylic acid, works inside the follicles and on the surface of the skin and helps to thoroughly clean the pores from the inside.

Skintegra Clarion 2% BHA cleanser for oily and problematic skin

Lighter textures are a better option for the care of this type of skin, compared to a heavier, occlusive product. It is important to remove excess sebum from the skin, but we must not dry it out at the same time. For this reason, we recommend products that thoroughly clean, but at the same time preserve the balance of the hydrolipidic barrier. If your skin is prone to comedones, also revise the liquid powder you use, because due to its occlusive nature, it is often the cause of clogged pores.

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