Before you even start thinking about which product is for you, it is important that you correctly recognize your skin type.
As four basic skin types, we distinguish dry, oily, normal and mixed skin. The basic skin type is generally unchangeable and genetically determined, but with each skin type, additional factors such as sensitivity, evenness of tone and texture must be taken into account, which ultimately influence the choice of proper care.
It is necessary to distinguish the type and condition of the skin. A skin condition is, for example, dehydration. Both oily and dry skin types can develop the problem of surface drying of the skin (dehydration) due to the use of aggressive cleaners, too frequent cleaning of the skin, insufficient hydration and the like. We can influence the condition by making small changes in the care regimen, but unfortunately we cannot influence the skin type, but we can try to balance the skin and keep it healthy, regardless of the skin type.
SKIN TYPE
To begin with, carefully study the features of each skin type, according to which you will be able to more easily classify your skin into the right category:
DRY : Your skin is dry if it looks tight and matte throughout the day. The pores are almost barely visible, and the skin can be rough and scaly to the touch. Acne and comedones are rare. Such skin lacks lipids and prefers rich, nourishing products.
OILY : This skin type is easy to recognize by the greasy shine that is present throughout the day on the entire face, and when touched, an oily trace remains on the hand. Pores are generally very clear, enlarged, and in some cases clogged. Oily skin is more likely to develop acne and comedones, so such skin is often accompanied by irregularities. Light, fast-absorbing watery serums and serum emulsions are the type of products oily skin prefers. With this type, it is important to strive to balance the amount of sebum secreted, that is, to establish the flow of sebum from the follicles and to normalize the rate of desquamation, so that the pore does not become clogged - which is a prerequisite for the development of acne.
NORMAL : An ideal, almost endemic skin type characterized by a balanced ratio of sebum and moisture, i.e. a healthy hydrolipidic barrier. The skin has a healthy, light glow. It doesn't get too greasy and doesn't feel tight. Pores are present in smaller numbers, usually barely visible. For this type of skin, we choose a serum emulsion or a cream with a lighter texture.
MIXED : As the name suggests, it is a skin type with features of both oily and dry skin. Most often, the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) is oilier with the appearance of acne and comedones, while the cheeks are dry or normal. A combined approach to skin care is best suited for a mixed type. Lighter texture on oilier parts, while cheek care can be enhanced with an additional nourishing product.
Now that you understand your skin type, it is important to conclude on some other determinants that will guide skin care.
SENSITIVITY
Another important factor that determines the type of skin and the direction of care is the level of the skin's natural resistance. Resistant skin is characterized by a durable surface layer that adequately protects the skin from allergens and environmental irritants. Acne and inflammatory processes and general redness of the skin are very rare in individuals with resistant skin. They generally have a high tolerance threshold for various cosmetic products.
In contrast to resistant skin, the problem of sensitive skin is increasingly common, showing 4 different subtypes: the subtype that develops acne (with a tendency towards comedones and acne); the subtype that develops rosacea (with a tendency towards facial redness accompanied by dilated blood vessels and papulopustular changes); the subtype that develops reactivity (characterized by a burning sensation and transient redness), and the subtype that develops allergy (characterized by pronounced redness, itching, and peeling of the skin). The common denominator of all these subtypes is the inflammatory response of the skin, and the therapy is carried out accordingly.
The inflammatory response of the skin is a complex problem with numerous etiologies that needs to be targeted and specifically addressed. Cosmetically, we can address this problem by avoiding irritants and introducing soothing ingredients with anti-inflammatory effects such as aloe vera, oat extract, cucumber extract, niacinamide, salicylic acid, zinc PCA, chamomile, etc.
SKIN TONE EVENNESS
This factor refers to the tendency towards spots and discoloration on the skin - such as procedural pigmentation and melasma.
Postural hyperpigmentation describes darkened, mostly brown spots that are left behind by acne , and the etiology of these changes is almost the same as the etiology of melasma - both are caused by the activity of melanocytes and exposure to UV radiation. In contrast to them, procedural erythema is a residual redness (mainly after acne or a wound) that signals that the body was trying to heal some inflammatory process.
For procedural hyperpigmentation and melasma, the most effective are hydroquinone, vitamin C, kojic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, and mulberry and licorice extract. In addition to them, exfoliating ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acid are effective in stimulating the exfoliation of problematic keratinocytes. Avoiding UV radiation is mandatory.
For procedural erythema, the best remedy is to avoid products that cause skin irritation. Over time, these changes pass by themselves, and the speed of the passage depends on the depth of the inflammation that caused the change, and can last from just a few days to even several years. Lasers that target the red pigment in the skin are one of the potential solutions, but usually several treatments are required with several months of recovery.
SKIN TEXTURE
Skin texture can be divided into visible pores and wrinkles. The formation of wrinkles is mostly influenced by chronological factors (natural, genetically determined aging) and exposure to UV radiation. Chronological aging cannot be prevented or delayed, but environmental factors can be influenced preventively.
Premature aging of the skin is most affected by smoking and other forms of pollution, nutritionally poor diet, excessive alcohol consumption and, above all, exposure to UV radiation. All these factors to a greater or lesser extent prevent the synthesis of collagen and stimulate the inflammatory response of the skin. Given that we know that the levels of structural components of the skin (such as collagen, elastin and naturally occurring hyaluronic acid) decline over time, preventing their significant degradation in the skin is the key to keeping the skin youthful. Products containing vitamin C, peptides and retinoids, and chemical peels significantly help collagen synthesis.
Another textural skin problem is enlarged pores that give the skin a specific porous appearance. This problem occurs in very oily skin, but also in dry and mature skin, although the etiology of enlarged pores in these two cases is completely different. Pores are a normal phenomenon on every skin because they represent a drainage opening for sebum and keratinocytes in the deeper layers of the dermis. With oily skin, the production of sebum is increased, which means that the pores expand in order to empty the sebum from the hair canal as efficiently as possible. In dry and mature skin, enlarged pores are a sign of weakened epidermis and dermis. With the degradation of collagen and elastin, the surface of the skin begins to lose its firmness and smoothness, it relaxes and the pores become more visible, that is, they look enlarged.
The solution to visible wrinkles and pores on the face boils down to the same line of defense. For mixed to oily skin with enlarged pores, the use of chemical peels, especially those based on glycolic and lactic acid, will be of particular importance, as they significantly retexture the skin with regular use. In addition to them, retinoids and other mentioned antioxidants, as well as adequate UV protection, are long-term help for all skin types with this problem. The appearance of skin with enlarged pores and wrinkles can be improved, even significantly, but at the same time it is necessary to have realistic expectations.
When you understand your skin type and what specific problems bother you, then it is easy to discern in which ways and with which products you can treat these problems. In order to make it easier for you to choose cosmetics that will adequately cover all the specific problems of your skin, on our webshop a detailed description of the skin for which the product is intended is printed next to each individual product.