If you're just starting to put together your skin care routine or renewing the one you've been following for years, when choosing new products it's important to keep in mind which ones you can combine and which ones you can't. From our experience, the most doubts exist when combining ingredients for the treatment of oily, acne-prone skin - salicylic acid. Learn which ingredients are best complemented with salicylic acid, and which ones we would not recommend in that combination, as well as how to choose the ideal type of product with this ingredient for your skin's needs.
What are the benefits of BHA acid?
In addition to being the only β-hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is also the only lipophilic acid, i.e. the only fat-soluble acid, which is why it is very popular in the care routine of mixed and oily skin prone to inflammatory acne and comedones because it penetrates the pores very effectively. and keeps them clean. Salicylic acid "softens" the stratum corneum by dissolving the intercellular cement, which leads to reduced corneocyte adhesion and breaking the bonds between lipids and dead skin cells. In addition to promoting the removal of dead skin surface cells and helping to keep pores clean , it also has a sebostatic effect, i.e. reduces excessive sebum secretion , and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.
Which ingredients to combine with BHA acid, and which to avoid?
When combining salicylic acid with other ingredients, it is important to follow a few golden rules. To begin with, do not combine BHA acid with other powerful active ingredients , such as AHA acids and retinoids, in the same routine . Although the active substances are real little miracle workers, overdoing them can cause irritation and dryness, so we recommend that you use them alternately in your routine.
When it comes to the ingredients that work best with a BHA acid, it's important to choose ones that compliment the effects that salicylic acid has on the skin. Therefore, after using BHA acid and exfoliation, it is important not to forget about hydration . For this purpose, ingredients such as hyaluronic acid are useful due to its ability to bind water , but also niacinamide , which at lower concentrations acts as a moisturizer , while at higher concentrations it has been proven to reduce sebum secretion, improve skin texture and reduce pore size, and as such is an ideal counterpart to salicylic acid. in the treatment of acne-prone skin.
However, another very important fact that needs to be kept in mind when it comes to combining cosmetic ingredients is the pH value . Given that salicylic acid is most often found in a pH medium of 3-4, and niacinamide 5-7, it is important not to mix them so that their effects do not cancel each other out. Namely, niacinamide would raise the pH value of salicylic acid, making it significantly less effective, while salicylic acid would cause the conversion of niacinamide into niacin, which can cause transient redness. In order to take full advantage of their positive properties , we recommend that you do not use them in layers, but alternately at different times of the day; niacinamide in the morning, and BHA acid in the evening skin care routine.
How to choose the ideal product with BHA acid for skin needs?
If you are the owner of mixed to oily and problematic skin with visible pores and shine that needs deep cleansing of the pores, choose Clarion serum or cleanser . When it comes to exfoliation, it's important to stick to the rule of less is more , so only one Clarion is enough for you, but how to choose?
If the skin is oily and shows a tendency to inflammatory acne and comedones, and at the same time it is characterized by resistance and as such can withstand the use of a potent formula, we recommend that you include Clarion serum in your routine. This transformer combines the maximum allowed concentration of salicylic and glycolic acids (2% BHA + 4% AHA), acting effectively on acne, but also the problems that accompany it, such as excessive secretion of sebum and enlarged pores, damaged texture and treatment spots.
It is intended for use in the evening routine as the first step after cleansing the face, no more than 1-2 times a week in the initial phase until the skin gets used to it, after which it is possible to increase the frequency of use. It can be too intense for sensitive skin, so in that case we recommend using it as a mask and rinsing after ten minutes . In addition to oily skin, it can also be used on other skin types as a local treatment by direct application to problem areas.
If your mixed to oily skin is also sensitive and as such does not tolerate exfoliants that do not wash off or you are a complete beginner in the use of keratolytics, Clarion 2% BHA cleanser is ideal for you. Thanks to zinc and salicylic acid, this product combines facial cleansing with mild exfoliation for problematic acne-prone skin, and even due to short contact with the skin, it very effectively removes excess sebum and cleans pores with less likelihood of irritation and dryness.
For thin and sensitive skin, it is recommended to use it in the morning or evening routine 1-2 times a week, while more resistant skin tolerates daily use well . Also, in addition to the contact method of using salicylic acid, this 2-in-1 product is also ideal for those who struggle with irregularities on the body - whether it's acne on the back and chest or the tendency to "turkey skin" that appears on the upper arms.
Literature:
- Arif, Tasleem. (2015). Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: A comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 8.
- Madan, Raman & Levitt, Jacob. (2014). A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 70.
- Keen, Mohammad. (2017). Hyaluronic Acid in Dermatology. Skinmed. 15. 441-448.
- Berson D, Osborne R, Oblong J, Hakozaki T, Johnson MB, Bissett D. Niacinamide: A topical vitamin with wide-ranging skin appearance benefits. Cosmeceut Cosmet Pract 2013;22:103-12.