Freckles, spots, spots, freckles... they all share the common name of hyperpigmentation changes, and they remain as a memory of the sun and summer. If you overexposed your skin to the sun this summer and developed hyperpigmentation, the fall ahead is the ideal time to get rid of them! Learn how hyperpigmentation changes occur, which ingredients help us keep them under control, and what you can do to avoid the appearance of new spots in the future.
What are hyperpigmentation changes and how do they occur?
Hyperpigmentation changes are light to dark brown spots that most often appear on the nose, cheeks and forehead, and are caused by hyperproduction of melanin . Although most of us love summer and sun, it is useful to remember that hyperpigmentation, apart from genetic risk factors, also occurs due to exposure of the skin to UV radiation . Melanocytes, or pigment cells, are located at the base of the epidermis and produce the protein melanin, while keratinocytes transfer melanin to the surface of the skin. Hyperproduction of melanin actually represents a defensive reaction of our body due to damage caused by UV radiation , and excessive production of melanin manifests itself precisely in the form of hyperpigmentation changes.
How to treat hyperpigmentation changes?
As we approach the beginning of autumn, it is the ideal time to introduce chemical exfoliants into the routine. These are acid-based liquid peels, and they serve as a gentler alternative to mechanical peels that contain granules that damage the surface layer of the skin without the additional long-term benefits that chemical peels give us.
Lumion is excellent for evening out skin tone, including effectively treating hyperpigmentation spots - a chemical exfoliant containing 5% AHA acid (glycolic + lactic acid) and 1.58% PHA acid (gluconolactone) using molecules of different molecular weights to remove dead skin cells . Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight of all AHA acids, so it effectively penetrates deeper into the dermis and is particularly suitable for treating surface problems such as hyperpigmentation. Compared to glycolic acid, lactic acid has a higher molecular weight, which is why it cannot penetrate into the deeper layers of the dermis, but this milder form of AHA acid is an excellent counterpart to glycolic acid because, in addition to exfoliation, it also hydrates the skin. PHA acids are less often talked about, but this milder cousin of AHA acids is very powerful in correcting uneven skin tone and deep hydration of the skin, and at the same time is gentle enough for use on sensitive skin.
Chemical exfoliants have a keratolytic effect , that is, they exfoliate dead surface skin cells , and AHA acids do this by reducing the concentration of calcium ions in the epidermis and removing calcium ions from cell adhesions, which causes their loss in cell adhesion molecules dependent on divalent metal cations. This disrupts cell adhesion, which leads to desquamation. They stimulate cell turnover, and consequently even out the complexion and make the skin refreshed and radiant. Another plus of Lumion, given that it does not contain salicylic acid, is that it can be used by pregnant and lactating women , which is important considering that a large number of women during pregnancy face the problem of hyperpigmentation due to hormonal imbalance.
Routine for treating hyperpigmentation
When it comes to chemical exfoliants, it is important to start slowly and not overload skin that is not used to them. Lumion is recommended to be applied in a thin layer in the evening routine after cleansing on dry skin. In the beginning, we recommend using it once or twice a week due to the possibility of redness and slight burning, and after the skin gets used to it, it is possible to use it several times a week, and even every day if it suits your skin.
The ideal ally to the use of chemical exfoliants in the evening routine is to combine them with vitamin C in the morning. Vitamin C acts as a melanin inhibitor and has a strong antioxidant effect , protecting our skin from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation. Our Superba C contains 10% SAP : a safe and stable form of vitamin C that does not make the skin more sensitive to the sun. In fact, SAP enhances the protective effect of SPF, and is also suitable for very sensitive skin.
Ultimately, every effort will be in vain if you expose yourself to the sun irresponsibly , do not use a product with a high protection factor throughout the year and do not reapply it often enough. The use of SPF is essential not only in the context of fading existing spots, but also preventing their darkening and the formation of new ones.
That is why we emphasize the importance of finding a cream with a protective factor that protects us from UV radiation. The most practical thing is to find a product that protects from the sun at the same time and is also adequate as daily hydration with its texture and formulation. Such a 2in1 product is Solar I SPF30 fluid. Solar I is suitable for all skin types, protects against a wide spectrum of UV radiation (UVA + UVB), and due to its light texture, it is quickly absorbed and leaves the skin smooth and hydrated, acting as an excellent base for applying makeup.
Although by applying adequate products in the routine, the skin becomes fresher already overnight , especially those that are just getting acquainted with acids, the fading time of hyperpigmentation changes depends on several factors, such as how widespread and deeply rooted the spot is in the skin, but also how much (not) we expose ourselves to the sun responsibly . Also, in some cases professional treatment is required, after which cosmetic products can be used to maintain and prevent the condition.
Keep in mind that treating hyperpigmentation spots is a challenging and complex process that requires patience, so be gentle with yourself and your skin!
Literature:
- Vashi, Neelam & Kundu, RV. (2013). Facial hyperpigmentation: Causes and treatment. British Journal of Dermatology. 169.
- Wang, Xiao. (1999). A theory for the mechanism of the alpha-hydroxy acids applied to the skin. Medical hypotheses. 53. 380-2.
- Ortonne, Jean-Paul & Bissett, Donald. (2008). Latest Insights into Skin Hyperpigmentation. The journal of investigative dermatology. Symposium proceedings / the Society for Investigative Dermatology, Inc. [and] European Society for Dermatological Research. 13. 10-4.
- Sharad, Jaishree. (2013). Glycolic acid peel therapy - A current review. Clinical, cosmetic and investigative dermatology. 6. 281-288.