Freckles, sun spots, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, pregnancy mask, in one word - hyperpigmentation!
Traces of summer after increased exposure to the sun often follow us throughout the year in the form of brownish spots on the face. These are visible hyperpigmentation changes that occur as a result of photoaging and damage caused by UV radiation . Hyperpigmentation changes (as well as tanning after sunbathing) actually represent a defensive reaction of our skin, which begins to produce more melanin in response to the negative effects of UV radiation. Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin and thus try to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, are responsible for the above melanin hyperproduction.
In addition to UV radiation, hyperpigmentation also occurs due to genetic predisposition, and sometimes we call them the "pregnancy mask" because they can occur as a reaction to hormonal changes during pregnancy, but also during the use of birth control pills and hormone replacement therapy.
Hyperpigmentation is characterized by light brown to dark brown spots of a larger surface that mostly appear on both sides of the face, but can also appear on just one part, most often the forehead, cheek and bridge of the nose. Does "brown mustache" sound familiar?
How to treat them at home?
Of the topical products for treating and alleviating hyperpigmentation changes, the most effective ingredients are vitamin C (we choose sodium ascorbyl phosphate), glycolic acid, bakuchiol and retinoids.
Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate): As a powerful antioxidant, it reduces the oxidative stress of the skin caused by UV radiation, leading to microscopic damage that accumulates in the skin over time. In addition, it acts as a melanin inhibitor, which is why it is especially important against hyperpigmentation changes and helps to lighten and even out skin tone. In combination with it, the protective factor has a stronger photoprotective effect, and it can be used complementary with more potent active ingredients to treat this problem.
Glycolic acid: A component of the group of alphahydroxy acids (AHA), which is used for chemical exfoliation. It works by chemically softening superficial dead skin cells, invisible to the eye, or by gently removing them from the skin, leaving the skin refreshed and smooth. It has the smallest molecular structure among AHA exfoliants, which allows it to penetrate deeper into the dermis, so this type of acid is intended precisely to even out skin tone and alleviate hyperpigmentation.
Retinoids: A name that includes derivatives of the powerful vitamin A, but retinol and retinal are most commonly used in home cosmetics. With regular use, these ingredients alleviate hyperpigmentation and accelerate the process of cell turnover, which results in an even skin tone and reduced hyperpigmentation changes. Although they provide excellent results, retinoids can be drying and have a higher irritating potential, so caution and gradual introduction into the routine using lower concentrations is recommended when introducing them.
Bakuchiol : a compound derived from the plant Psoralea corylifolia, which has been confirmed in clinical studies as a functional herbal analogue of retinol without the side effects that retinoids can cause on delicate skin. It is not a photosensitizer and has a better safety profile, i.e. it is a suitable ingredient for sensitive groups - pregnant and lactating women. With a strong antioxidant effect, it reduces hyperpigmentation changes and evens skin tone, and works synergistically with acids and vitamin C.
Prevention of signs of photoaging
In addition to the continuous use of products with the listed ingredients, prevention is of great importance for problems with hyperpigmentation changes, i.e. daily application of a high protective factor that protects the skin from a wide spectrum of UV radiation (UVA + UVB) and consequent photoaging, as well as responsible behavior in the sun . It is important to use a product with a high protection factor all year round, apply liberally and reapply as needed, and find one that is pleasant enough on the skin that we really want to wear it every day.
Suggested spring/summer routine:
In the morning: Superba C + Solar I
In the evening: Architect
Summer is the period when you are looking for a quick solution to this problem so that you do not need a powder to cover it, but it is important to emphasize that melasma remediation is a long-term process and must be treated throughout the year. During the summer, it is important to avoid the sun as much as possible, which means that sunbathing on the beach is not desirable. Of course, it is mandatory to apply a high protection factor daily and to use other methods of photoprotection such as sunglasses and hats.
Our recommendation in summer is to include Superba C, a powerful antioxidant serum with a high protection factor, which, in addition to 10% vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate), also contains vitamin E and ferulic acid for a potent antioxidant effect. The evening routine can include ingredients that do not make the skin more sensitive to the sun, and work successfully to even out the skin tone, such as bakuchiol from the Architect serum emulsion, which is a great alternative to acids and retinoids in the summer, but also for more sensitive skins that generally do not tolerate such strong active ingredients.
Suggested fall/winter routine:
In the morning: Superba C + Solar I
In the evening: Lumion + hydration
In autumn, you can start introducing Lumion, a nighttime chemical exfoliant that contains an effective complex of 5% AHA (glycolic + lactic acid) and 1.58% PHA acid (gluconolactone), with its keratolytic effect it exfoliates dead surface cells, including hyperpigmentation, refines skin tone and restores freshness and radiance.
It is important to remember that all care is in vain if you do not protect your skin from the sun during the day, and you are exposed to its harmful effects.
Arm yourself with patience, because treating hyperpigmentation is a long process and includes not only their treatment , but also the prevention of new ones and the darkening of existing spots.