The use of plants for medicinal purposes is as old as mankind. Various plant extracts were the basis of medical treatments as well as cosmetic products of ancient civilizations, and they are also relevant in today's skin care product formulations. Due to their multiple positive properties, they are also an important part of our products.
One of the more popular plant extracts is undoubtedly green tea extract ( Camellia sinensis ). Green tea contains large amounts of polyphenols , especially catechins, which are known as powerful antioxidants with photoprotective properties , among which epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) stands out. These polyphenols reduce oxidative stress caused by UV radiation and inhibit various cytokines and mediators involved in skin carcinogenesis. Also, due to its ability to reduce skin inflammation and neutralize free radicals, green tea is a popular ingredient in products intended for rosacea skin and skin showing the first signs of aging. In addition, green tea also helps with hormonal acne due to its ability to inhibit 5-alpha reductase, which is essential for the conversion of testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, which leads to excessive secretion of sebum and the creation of prerequisites suitable for the development of acne. Other important components of green tea are amino acids, proteins, lipids, vitamins (B, C and E), pigments (chlorophyll and carotenoids) and minerals, and they provide additional benefits to the skin, such as a moisturizing and protective effect.
We also often use licorice extract ( Glycyrrhiza glabra ) in our formulations. It is rich in flavonoids, including glabridin, which has been proven to inhibit the enzyme tyrosine kinase and the process of melanogenesis in melanocytes. In addition to protecting our skin from oxidative stress , it also has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects and has been proven to help with atopic dermatitis and rosacea.
Wine polyphenols are very powerful antioxidants, generally many times more potent than vitamins A, C and E. Resveratrol is a polyphenol responsible for many beneficial effects of grape seeds, which, in addition to antioxidant, also include anti-inflammatory and antiproliferative effects . It is an ingredient that also exhibits excellent anti-aging properties and has been proven to act on cellular mechanisms associated with photoaging. In vivo research has shown that topical application of resveratrol before exposure to UVB radiation results in significant inhibition of inflammation and edema mediated by UV radiation.
Aloe vera has a long history as an ancient medicinal plant used in wound healing . Aloe vera juice is released from the leaves of the plant as a colorless gel containing a complex mixture of active components that include proteins, minerals, carbohydrates, polyphenols and vitamins. Although the first association we all associate with aloe vera is probably soothing the skin, it also has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which is why it also shows potential in treating acne.
Another plant extract known for its calming properties is chamomile extract ( Chamomilla recutita) . Chamomile is rich in terpenoids and flavonoids, and in addition to soothing and anti-inflammatory properties , it also has antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, and promotes wound healing.
Ginkgo leaves ( Ginkgo biloba ) contain unique polyphenols, such as terpenoids, flavonoids and flavonol glycosides, which have anti-inflammatory effects and help in the treatment of conditions such as acne and eczema . It has been shown that the flavonoid fractions of ginkgo induce the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts in vitro . Like ginkgo, ginseng ( Panax ginseng ) is a plant with many benefits that is a common part of homeopathic medicine in the East. In addition to increasing the activity of the skin's antioxidant enzymes , it regulates the level of matrix metalloproteases in type I collagen , increasing elasticity and water content in the skin , protects keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts from damage caused by UV radiation, and inhibits melanin production.
Gotu kola ( Centella asiatica ) contains many pentacyclic triterpenoids including asiaticoside, brahmoside, asiatic and madecassic acid, but also ingredients such as centelose, centeloside and madecasoside. This complex of ingredients is effective in the treatment of wounds and burns , and the mechanism of action includes stimulating fibroblast proliferation, increasing collagen synthesis and intracellular fibronectin content, as well as inhibiting the inflammatory phase of hypertrophic scars and keloids. Research also suggests that Centella asiatica and its components may be useful in treating psoriasis and scleroderma.
Marigold flower extract ( Calendula officinalis ) has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties that are based on the inhibition of the production of the pro-inflammatory NO radical . Therefore, it is suitable for the treatment of conditions associated with dysregulation of the NO signaling cascade, such as contact dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis and melasma. Oats ( Avena sativa ) have been cultivated since the Bronze Age, and nowadays they are used to treat burns, itching, rashes and eczema due to their soothing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties.
Literature:
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