Niacinamide or nicotinamide is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin D, widely known as B3. In low concentrations (1-2%) it is a very beneficial hydrating agent while in higher concentrations (above 4%) it has been proven to be effective on post-inflammatory pigmentation marks by inhibiting melanin synthesis. It is also successful in reducing sebum production and refines the skin’s texture (visually reducing the size of pores). This makes it an ideal component of products used for treating skin prone to mild to moderate acne, oily but dehydrated skin at the same time (with remaining marks from acne but also from UV damage) and skin prone to inflammatory disorders such as seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis.
Recent research has shown that niacinamide in a minimum 4% concentration is comparatively effective in eliminating acne as the antibiotic 1% Clindamycin, while in the matter of lightening pigmentation marks, it had similar results in the same percentage in comparison to the problematic (yet effective) 4% hydroquinone (source: Forbat, E., Al-Niaimi, F. and Ali, F. R. 2017 Use of nicotinamide in dermatologyClinical and Experimental Dermatology, 42: 137–144.).
Topically applied, niacinamide is a safe and effective ingredient, ideal for all who are looking for an all-in-one solution for treatment of problematic areas on the skin and anti-age treatment. Temporary redness of the skin may appear if niacinamide is layered on top of products with a significantly lower pH, such as exfoliators and some vitamin C derivatives. This redness is not an allergic reaction of the skin, but an expected reaction which occurs because in the presence of an acidic pH medium (lower than pH 5), niacinamide starts to break down on the skin. For that reason we recommend that products based on niacinamide and exfoliators be alternated mornings and evenings instead of used simultaneously or layered one on top of the other. Skintegra’s vitamin C serum contains the stable form of this ingredient, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, which is formulated in a pH medium similar to that of its niacinamide-based product. This means that there are no negative interactions between these two products’ ingredients, making them suitable for combined use, targeted at achieving the best possible results on skin prone to uneven tone, pigmentation marks and inflammatory processes.