Alpha bisabolol is a well-known anti-irritant and potent anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial ingredient which also enhances the absorption of the product’s other ingredients into the skin, which is especially important when the product’s formula includes antioxidants and other beneficial ingredients. It restores softness to the skin, reduces flaking caused by dehydration and regenerates skin with an impaired hydrolipidic barrier. Some research also suggests that it has the potential to lighten pigmentation marks (source: Lee J., Jun H., Jung E., Ha J., Park D. 2010 Whitening effect of alpha-bisabolol in Asian women subjects 32(4):299-303). Since it is derived from chamomile, it retains its gentle floral aroma.
D-panthenol or dexpanthenol is created through conversion from pantothenic acid, also known as vitamin B5. Once applied to the skin it is re-converted back into pantothenic acid which is extremely hygroscopic, meaning that it binds water very effectively. In addition, D-panthenol is very efficient in preventing transepidermal water loss (TWL) which, simply put, means that it prevents dehydration of the skin (source: Wollina U. 2005 Conservative procedures in skin reconstitution Research Gate 9:1-8).
Further, pantothenic acid has a highly important role in the synthesis of coenzyme A which is crucial for well-regulated, healthy cellular growth. D-panthenol is the only biologically active form of panthenol.
As opposed to bisabolol, D-panthenol is water soluble, while their effect on the skin is similar exhibiting calming, regenerative, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effects. Irritation, dryness, acne and burns are only some skin conditions in which case use of dexpanthenol may be beneficial.